	RobbMc Performance Products News Volume 2, Issue 4 September 2008 Unsubscribe
Common Starter Installation Mistakes
In no particular order... Not Using the Starter Locating Plate Some engines (including most Ford and AMC) use a plate (sandwiched between the engine and the transmission or bellhousing) to properly locate the starter the correct distance from the center of the ring gear. The starter has a register diameter which fits snuggly into a hole in the starter locating plate. Many people remove this plate (or forget to install it) and assume the starter bolts will locate the starter in the correct position. Sometimes they do. But usually not. The result is a starter that either grinds (and won't engage the ring gear), or which engages but has excessive backlash between the pinion gear and the ring gear. Excessive backlash leads to rounded-off gear teeth. Using a "Jumper Wire" When installing a mini starter on a car equipped with a remote solenoid (such as many Ford and AMC), it is common to use a jumper wire between the large and small terminals on the starter solenoid. This works fine unless the starter uses a permanent magnet motor (such as a RobbMc starter). If a jumper wire is used on a permanent magnet starter, the pinion gear will not release from the ring gear promptly when the key is released. This eventually destroys the starter. Be sure to follow the wiring instructions that come with the starter. Using Too Many Shims Starters which bolt to the engine block (such as Chevy, Olds and Pontiac V8) sometimes require shims between the starter and the engine to achieve smooth engagement. However, shims should never be used unless absolutely necessary as they increase backlash and the chance of rounding off the teeth. Always try the starter without any shims first. Then, if the starter will not engage the ring gear (i.e. "zings" against the ring gear but does not turn the engine over), add one 1/32" shim at a time until the starter engages. Use no more shims than necessary. No more than .125" (1/8") of shims should be needed. If more than 1/8" of shims are required to achieve smooth engagement, something is wrong. Check for damaged teeth on the ring gear or debris between the starter and the mounting surface. NOTE: IT IS NORMAL FOR THE PINION GEAR TO REMAIN ENGAGED WITH THE RING GEAR IF THE ENGINE DOES NOT START. If the starter cranks the engine over, but the engine does not start, the pinion gear will remain engaged in the ring gear. This is normal and correct. Many people add shims thinking the starter gear should retract even if the engine does not start. This is wrong and will cause excessive backlash and gear failure. Using the Wrong Starter Mounting Bolts If the starter bolts to the bellhousing or transmission, any bolt of the correct size, strength and length can be used because the bolts only fasten the starter; they do not locate the starter. The job of accurately locating the starter is done by the starter locating plate (or by a machined register diameter). However, if the starter bolts to the engine block, the starter mounting bolts must fasten the starter and accurately locate it for proper engagement. To do so, the bolts must be a tight fit in the starter holes. Therefore, true starter bolts have a knurl on the shank just below the threads. If you are installing a starter which attaches to the engine block rather than the bellhousing or transmission, be sure to use the proper knurled starter bolts. Unlike some other mini starters, RobbMc starters are designed to use the same length bolts as a stock starter. Not Checking the End Clearance End clearance is the distance from the end of the pinion gear to the nearest face of the ring gear when the starter is not engaged with the ring gear. For a mini starter, this distance should be between 1/16" and 7/32". If you cannot measure the clearance after the starter is bolted to the engine, take measurements of the starter and engine and calculate the clearance before installing the starter. If the distance is less than 1/16" the ring gear may rub on the pinion gear while the engine is running, or the pinion gear may not disengage completely after the engine starts. If the clearance is more than 7/32", the pinion gear will not engage far enough into the ring gear. Many people ask why the end clearance must be checked when using a mini starter. After all, this is not something that is normally checked when using a full sized starter. The answer is pinion travel. The pinion gear on a stock, full-sized starter extends about one full inch when the solenoid is activated. The pinion gear on a mini starter only extends about 1/2". So the pinion gear on a mini starter must be set up closer to the ring gear. Most mini starters are designed to use special shims or a "short" gear to increase the end clearance when necessary. If the end clearance is too large, contact the starter manufacturer for advise. Insufficient Solenoid Current Cars (including most GM products) which do not use a starter relay or remote solenoid often suffer from insufficient electrical current delivery to the solenoid. The solenoid may require as much as 30 or 40 amps to work properly. This is a lot of power to supply via one small wire, especially on older cars where the electrical contacts and switches are old, worn and corroded. The electricity must travel from the battery to the fuse box, through the ignition switch and then down to the solenoid. If there is insufficient power transmitted, the solenoid will just "click" rather than activating the starter motor, even if the solenoid is in good working order. If the starter solenoid "clicks" but the starter doesn't run, try using a remote starter switch. This connects the battery directly to the small terminal on the starter. If the starter then works properly, the solenoid is not receiving enough current from the key. If this is the case, and you don't wish to rewire the car, install a Ford style remote solenoid to activate the solenoid on the starter. — Robb	Product Showcase RobbMc 1/2" Sending Units Drop-in replacement for factory 5/16" or 3/8" sending units. Budget alternative to a fuel cell or weld-on sump. Recommended for cars with engines over 450 hp. Recommended for all cars with an electric fuel pump and return/bypass style regulator Applications 1964-1972 GM "A-body" cars (except station wagon) including Skylark, GS, Chevelle, Malibu, El Camino, Cutlass, 442, Lemans, GTO Coming September 23! Fuel Sending Units for 1970–73 Camaro/Firebird Features 1/2" pickup and feed tubes reduce flow restriction to suction side of fuel pump 1/2" return tube allows use of a return/bypass regulator without modifying the fuel tank or switching to a fuel cell Return tube can be capped off if no return line is used Use with a reducer to connect 1/4" vapor return line from a mechanical pump Billet aluminum base and aluminum tubes are anodized for use with gasoline or alcohol Stainless fuel level sending unit works with OEM fuel level gauges (0-90 ohm) Eliminates restrictive, difficult to service intank "sock" filter. Use with RobbMc inline prefilter MADE IN THE USA Sending Unit Options: –8AN Male Fittings Added to the ends of the feed and return tubes. Reducer, 1/2" to 1/4" hose Required when using a mechanical pump with 1/4" vapor return line. RobbMc 1/2" Sending Units are now available. Order by phone or online through our secure Paypal shopping cart. RobbMc Performance Products 775.885.7411
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